The biggest difference between water-soluble plate lace and common plate lace is that it can not "see what you get" like common plate making. After it is finished on the machine, it has to go through a "boiling" process, which makes the needle treatment of water-soluble plate different from common plate making.
Water soluble plate making doesn't need a lot of stitches, the most commonly used ones are the most common "flat needle" and "flat wrapping needle", almost no such stitches as "tatami" and "E-shaped needle". The importance of "flat needle" in the lace of a water-soluble version cannot be said. The success of a water-soluble version depends largely on your proficiency in the use of "flat needle".
Another important factor is the draft. When I talk about the word "draft", I believe that many people can't ignore it. You will think that now many plate making software support scanning input, and don't need to mention the word "draft". If you really think so, you are wrong. I didn't say that the water-soluble version is not suitable for the software of scanning input, and it has to use a digitizer. In fact, on the contrary, in the last few years of my water-soluble version, the scanning input software has become popular. I feel that the software of scanning input is better than that of using a digitizer, and labor-saving is its greatest advantage. When a customer gives you a water-soluble pattern, I believe it is crumpled and uneven most of the time. If you just put it on the scanner and scan it, you don't get the right size. My experience is that I first take it under water, and then squeeze it a little bit. I don't want to put it on the scanner if it's wet. As a result, the glass of the scanner is full of water drops, which affects the scanning quality.
After the water sample on the scanner is easier to play with, then you try to put it as flat as possible. Generally, I use the JPG format of 200 resolution to store drawings. The advantage of storing JPG format is that I can get 1:1 size in the plate making software. By this time, it's not finished, and then use PS to handle it, and lower the transparency of the picture. I usually adjust it to 40%. (in Figure 1, the original image is on the left, and the processed image is on the right). Why do you want to lower the transparency of the image? You're sure to ask. You'll know the benefits a little later.
Now that you've finished half of the production of the draft, you have to keep busy. In the following course (forgive me for using the word "course", I can't think of any more appropriate words), I will use Wilcom 7 to lecture (forgive me again for using the word "lecture"). Open W7, input the picture, enlarge the picture by 11%. Now the general plate making software almost has this function. I'll explain why I want to enlarge the picture by 11%, because the water soluble flower has the characteristics of shrinkage after boiling. Whether it's a 120d line or a 250D line, or the general shrinkage of 150D is between 10-12%. I took a middle value, that is, 11%. We continue to make drawings and use the drawing tools of W7 to draw the outline of patterns.
Don't be confused by the gap between the petals of the sample. I'm sure the original tape of this sample can't have a gap. The gap is caused by the tension of embroidered threads and the contraction of boiled flowers. Carefully draw the outline on the picture. The flat needle connection between petals and petals can be omitted. We can input it by visual inspection based on the distance on the draft, which can save a lot of time. Now let me explain why the transparency of the picture should be turned down earlier. Now we can easily see that the painted draft is because the color of the picture is lighter. If I don't process the picture, its color will be darker, and it's difficult to distinguish where those lines are. That's why I want to turn down the transparency of the picture. So far, the draft is finished. In order to make this demonstration as simple as possible, I ignored the wiring around the sample.
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